Ask A Clean Cosmetic Chemist with Krupa Koestline

Are clean beauty products better for the environment? Who still tests on animals and why? How do retailers and brands develop their lists of restricted substances (aka, “no no” lists)? In honor of Earth Day, cosmetic biochemist Krupa Koestline—founder of KKT Consultants, a product-development firm—is here to answer all your questions. We’ll discuss the current state of “clean” beauty and dig into some more complicated issues, like the potential dangers of ethoxylated ingredients, how and why fragrances are used in product formulation, which skincare ingredients are overrated, and more.

Below you’ll find a list of some of the people, topics, and products mentioned in this episode. If you have any questions (or just want to say hi), reach out to us on Instagram or via email (info@fatmascara.com). And please email us voice memos of your beauty questions and Raise A Wand favorites so we can share them on the show. You can also leave us a voicemail to be featured on a future podcast (our phone number in the U.S. is at 646-481-8182).

Krupa Koestline
KKT Consultants
Formaldehyde-releasing ingredients
Silicone dioxide
Clean at Sephora
Credo
RSL = restricted substance list
more info on REACH’s use of animal testing
Ethoxylated ingredients
Ethylene oxide – a carcinogen
Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C + Perfecting Serum
Glow Recipe Papaya Sorbet Enzyme Cleansing Balm
Innersense Organic Beauty – a hair line Krupa likes
DS Laboratories – a clinical haircare line
Ranavat
Kopari Beauty 100% Organic Coconut Melt
May Lindstrom the Blue Cocoon
Exa Ten Amplifying Mascara
Peach & Lily Retinal for All Renewing Serum
astaxanthin – algae extract with excellent antioxidant abilities

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Ep. 485: Bare Legs, Body-Scrub Troubles & The Week’s Beauty News

In this pleasantly meandering episode, we contemplate celebrities who have beef with their glam squads (and vice versa), discuss bare-leg insecurity and how to handle it, and dream about owning a farm. Plus, Jess’s Beauty Sandwich facial from Iván Pol; skincare for dogs; reverse money pieces are the new hair color trend; and a new way to prevent underarm odor. Oh! And one last thing: Can you help us find the perfect (aka, “not gloopy-doopy”) body scrub?

Below you’ll find a list of some of the people, topics, and products mentioned in this episode. If you have any questions (or just want to say hi), reach out to us on Instagram or TikTok or via email (info@fatmascara.com). And please email us voice memos of your beauty questions and Raise A Wand favorites so we can share them on the show. You can also leave us a voicemail to be featured on a future podcast (our phone number in the U.S. is at 646-481-8182).

Intro:
Iván Pol
The Beauty Sandwich
Fouquet’s New York
The Beauty Sandwich Secret Sauce

Beauty News:
Law Roach and the Red Carpet-Pilling of the Styling Industry - by Lauren Sherman
Reverse Money Piece Hair
Ken Paves
Jessica Simpson
Floof Introduces New Dog Skincare Line
Floof
Ep. 379: Animal Dermatologist Dr. Joya Griffin Has All the Answers
Artemis Leto 3-in-1 Dog Wash
Arcaea ScentARC

Raise A Wand:
Listener Shauna: Sparrow For Everyone - The Hair Cream
Jenn: Hi Beautiful You Body Perfecting Bronzer
Jess: Chantecaille Lip Chic - Camellia
Tom Ford Lip Color - 01 Spanish Pink
Charlotte Tilbury K.I.S.S.I.N.G Lipstick - Bitch Perfect
Charlotte Tilbury K.I.S.S.I.N.G Lipstick - Penelope Pink

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Bringing Fragrance Memories Alive with Elizabeth Renstrom

Photographer and editor Elizabeth Renstrom is the artist behind Basenote Bitch, a project that explores how perfume plays a part in our formative years. In this interview, we revisit vintage fragrances—such as Love’s Baby Soft, Fetish by Dana, Tribe by Coty, and Ralph Lauren Cool—and discuss the marketing messages that were used to sell them. Plus, we learn more about Elizabeth and her work, her favorite beauty products, and the perfumes that have shaped who she is.

Below you’ll find a list of some of the people, topics, and products mentioned in this episode. If you have any questions (or just want to say hi), reach out to us on Instagram or via email (info@fatmascara.com). And please email us voice memos of your beauty questions and Raise A Wand favorites so we can share them on the show. You can also leave us a voicemail to be featured on a future podcast (our phone number in the U.S. is at 646-481-8182).

Elizabeth Renstrom
Basenote Bitch (website)
Estée Lauder Knowing
Estée Lauder Pleasures
Ralph Cool by Ralph Lauren for Women
Victoria's Secret Love Spell
Bath & Body Works Cucumber Melon
Bath & Body Works Bath & Body Works Juniper Breeze
Bath & Body Works Sun-Ripened Raspberry
Todd Oldham by Todd Oldham
Elizabeth Taylor Passion
Fetish Dana
Love's Baby Soft
Elizabeth Arden Green Tea
Debbie Gibson - Electric Youth
Tribe Coty
Yves Saint Laurent Opium
Clinique Happy
Tommy Girl Fragrance
Calice Becker - perfumer of Tommy Girl
Lolita Lempicka
Demeter Cologne Spray - Dirt
Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers
GAP Fragrances
GAP Om
Kate Spade Kate Spade
Guess Original Guess
Moda Operandi The Fragrance Shop
Santa Maria Novella L'iris
Mugler Alien
Narciso Rodriguez for Her Musc Noir Rose
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium Illicit Green
Billie Eilish fragrances

Some perfumes Elizabeth reaches for:
Aedes de Venustas Copal Azur
Diptyque fragrances

Beauty products Elizabeth likes:
Yves Saint Laurent Lash Clash Extreme Volume Mascara
Isehan Kiss Me Heroine Make Smooth Liquid Eyeliner
May Lindstrom the Honey Mud
Biologique Recherche Masque Vivant

Oh, Lola! by Marc Jacobs for Women
Marc Jacobs Decadence
Marc Jacobs Honey
Yves Saint Laurent Le Vestiaire Des Parfums Tuxedo
Lovely by SJP
Skinceuticals C E Ferulic
Le Labo perfumes
DS & Durga perfumes
Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady
Diptyque Orphéon

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Ep. 484: Makeup as Art, Museum-Inspired Fragrances & Beauty News with Guest Co-Host Wanyi Jiang

Wanyi Jiang, the creative director for JVN Hair (and one of Jenn’s best friends!) plays co-host this week while Jess is on spring break. Wanyi explains how she uses painting techniques to apply makeup, why polyglutamic acid serum is her makeup secret, and her approach to beauty-product packaging. Then, she and Jenn analyze the news: L’Oréal acquiring Aesop; home fragrances inspired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art; new bronzers from Pat McGrath Labs; and more. Plus, we raise wands to mascaras, a must-try foundation, and a candle that smells like “intense emotions.”

Below you’ll find a list of some of the people, topics, and products mentioned in this episode. If you have any questions (or just want to say hi), reach out to us on Instagram or TikTok or via email (info@fatmascara.com). And please email us voice memos of your beauty questions and Raise A Wand favorites so we can share them on the show. You can also leave us a voicemail to be featured on a future podcast (our phone number in the U.S. is at 646-481-8182).

Intro:
Wanyi Jiang - Global Creative Director at JVN Hair
JVN Hair
Byredo
Westman Atelier
Westman Atelier Super Loaded Tinted Highlight - Peau De Peche
Westman Atelier Beauty Butter Powder Bronzer
Westman Atelier sustainability mission
The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid

Beauty News: 
Pat McGrath's First-Ever Bronzer Promises a Bronzed Goddess Glow
’90S MAKEUP IS BACK – HERE’S HOW TO WEAR IT NOW
Why Y2K Fashion Is Making a Sharp Comeback
L'Oréal buys luxury brand Aesop with eye on China
Pura Collaborates With the Metropolitan Museum of Art on a New Collection of Fragrances
Pura X The Met Greek & Roman Set - Black Diffuser
H&M OPENS FIRST GLOBAL BEAUTY FLAGSHIPS IN OSLO
Heinz Develops Red Tattoo Ink

Raise A Wand:
Listener Anya: Tower 28 Makewaves Lengthening + Curling Clean Mascara
Beauty Pie Wrap Star™ Tubing Mascara
Wanyi: Hourglass Caution Extreme Lash Mascara
Haus Labs Triclone Skin Tech Medium Coverage Foundation with Fermented Arnica
Shiseido Benefiance Wrinkle Smoothing Eye Cream
Henry Rose - Michelle Pfeiffer’s brand
Henry Rose Torn Candle
Jenn: Mario Badescu Lip Mask with Acai & Vanilla

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Behind the Scenes of the Biggest Beauty Retailer on the Planet with Creighton Kiper

Walmart’s vice president of beauty, Creighton Kiper, talks about the most popular products in America, from $1.24 L.A. Colors eyelashes to the Relove By Revolution makeup line that’s all under $5. We discuss trend-spotting; Walmart’s multigenerational beauty shoppers; the retailer’s newest prestige offerings; which celebrity lines customers are loving; and more—like how Walmart can work to unlock sustainability at scale.

Below you’ll find a list of some of the people, topics, and products mentioned in this episode. If you have any questions (or just want to say hi), reach out to us on Instagram or via email (info@fatmascara.com). And please email us voice memos of your beauty questions and Raise A Wand favorites so we can share them on the show. You can also leave us a voicemail to be featured on a future podcast (our phone number in the U.S. is at 646-481-8182).

Creighton Kiper
Walmart
Relove by Revolution
Bubble skincare
Aussie
Olive and June 
Mighty Patch Original From Hero Cosmetics
Inkbox
Cerave
itk skincare
The Hair Lab

Viral products/brands:
L'oreal Paris Telescopic Mascara
Maybelline Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara
Chlorophyll water
Af94 - Halsey’s beauty brand
Fenty beauty

Celebrities with pull/trust:
Rihanna
Kylie Jenner
Halsey
LOVED01 - John Legend’s skincare line

Walmart Clean Beauty
Beauty Glow-Up Event (deals thru 4/30)
L.A. Colors Eyelashes Dramatilash Dazzling
Cerave Foaming Facial Cleanser
Peach Slices Acne Spot Dots
Ouai Scalp Serum
Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream Face Moisturizer with Hyaluronic Acid & Niacinamide

Justin Bieber
M&Ms and gummy bears
Through the Fire - Chaka Khan

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Ep. 483: Beauty Snacks, Solid Nail Polish & The Week’s Beauty News

Jenn attempts makeup depotting and Jess found a fitness streaming platform that’s just her speed. We’re also talking about solid nail polish, makeup samples that look like snacks, how California’s wildfires affect skin, beauty brands using scarcity marketing tactics, and why software engineers are inadvertently setting today’s beauty standards. Plus: a listener’s 3-for-1 Raise A Wand and a satin lipstick that lasts all day.

Below you’ll find a list of some of the people, topics, and products mentioned in this episode. If you have any questions (or just want to say hi), reach out to us on Instagram or TikTok or via email (info@fatmascara.com). And please email us voice memos of your beauty questions and Raise A Wand favorites so we can share them on the show. You can also leave us a voicemail to be featured on a future podcast (our phone number in the U.S. is at 646-481-8182).

Intro:
H&M sweater vests
Sweater vests have seriously glowed up
MYO palette

Beauty News:
Hermès Brings Scarcity Model to the Beauty Industry
Pat Mcgrath Labs Lipstick "FW 20 MatteTrance"
How climate change and wildfire smoke can impact the skin
INOCOS Solid Tricolor Gel is a finalist in the category Nail Products of Cosmoprof 2023
INOCOS Solid Tricolor Gel
Beauty Packaging Industry Swiftly Morphs
ITIT Cosmetics
ITIT Cosmetics Introduces Single-Use ‘Make-Up Snacks’
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Capsules Advanced
The Entropy article: Face Database Protection via Beautification with Chaotic Systems

Below, an image from the Entropy paper compares four filters used for face-privacy protection online. The authors believe the new filter they developed (far right) will be successful because it offers a better result via “beautification,” which they equate with “more delicate features and fairer skin.” 😳

Raise A Wand:
Listener Rebecca: Too Faced Better than Sex Mascara
Glossier Milky Oil
Sangre De Fruta Garden of Earthly Delights Botanical Hand Wash
Jess: Alo Moves - use promo code MASCARA to get a free 30-day trial PLUS 50% off an annual membership
Jenn: Hourglass Unlocked Satin Crème Lipstick - Tropic 332

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The Chemistry of Perfume & Candles with Perfumer Dana Schimtt

Why do some scented candles fill a room and others fall flat? What makes amber scents so warm and resinous? How do perfumers remember what different molecules and extracts smell like? Givaudan perfumer Dana Schmitt answers those questions and many more in this interview for all the fragrance nerds out there. She also talks about how her background in chemistry made her a better perfumer, what it’s like to create fragrances for companies like Otherland and Boy Smells; and the latest trends in home and fine fragrance.

Below you’ll find a list of some of the people, topics, and products mentioned in this episode. If you have any questions (or just want to say hi), reach out to us on Instagram or via email (info@fatmascara.com). And please email us voice memos of your beauty questions and Raise A Wand favorites so we can share them on the show. You can also leave us a voicemail to be featured on a future podcast (our phone number in the U.S. is at 646-481-8182).

Dana Schmitt
Givaudan
Paris Perfume Museum - the spark that led Dana down her perfumery path
Givaudan’s Perfumery School
Bath & Body Works Cucumber Melon & Sweet Pea - Dana’s earliest scent experiences
Boy Smells candles
Otherland Velvet Persimmon Candle - Dana’s candle creation
Tom Ford Lost Cherry Candle
Le Labo Santal 26 Candle

Some of Dana’s favorite perfumes:
Chanel Coromandel Les Exclusifs De Chanel Eau De Parfum
Guerlain Shalimar Eau De Parfum
Histoires De Parfums Ambre 114
Kilian Back to Black Aphrodisiac Eau De Parfum
Kilian Love, Don't Be Shy Eau De Parfum
Hermès Un Jardin en Méditerranée
Lancôme Trésor Eau De Parfum
Kenzo Flower
Mugler Angel Eau De Parfum

The New Savant
The New Savant - the Dropout Candle
Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous Eau De Parfum
Billie Eilish - a celeb Dana would create a perfume for

Perfumers mentioned:
Calice Becker - Perfumer of Kilian Back to Black and Love Don’t Be Shy
Alberto Morillas - Perfumer of Kenzo Flower

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Ep. 482: The Best Solid Shampoos & Conditioners, Ways to Build Resilience & The Week’s Beauty News

Solid shampoos and conditioners may be eco-friendlier, but which ones actually work? Jenn spent the past few months testing dozens, and now she’s sharing her favorites. Before that: the Color Guru giveaway contest; Bobbi Brown tells us about her Jones Road store and shares some life advice; Pantone expands its SkinTone Guide; and we’ve got exclusive news about a new product from Vacation, the company that’s making sunscreen less boring (and better smelling).

Below you’ll find a list of some of the people, topics, and products mentioned in this episode. If you have any questions (or just want to say hi), reach out to us on Instagram or TikTok or via email (info@fatmascara.com). And please email us voice memos of your beauty questions and Raise A Wand favorites so we can share them on the show. You can also leave us a voicemail to be featured on a future podcast (our phone number in the U.S. is at 646-481-8182).

Intro:
Color Guru - giveaway ends 4/3 (details in our post)
Y2K fashion
Lord Gavin lymphatic drainage facial massage

Beauty News:
Introducing the 2023 Pantone® SkinTone™ Guide
Bobbi Brown - founder of Jones Road
Jones Road Beauty
Jones Road Miracle Balm
The George - Bobbi Brown’s hotel
Bobbi Brown Does It Again
Sunscreen Brand Vacation Takes Its Miami Pool Party Vibe to the Suburbs

Solid Shampoos & Conditioners:
Good Time Hydrating Hair Duo
Superzero Hydrating Repair Shampoo Bar for Dry, Damaged Hair & Light Frizz
Superzero Hydrating Bond Repair Conditioner Bar for Dry, Damaged Hair & Light Frizz
Superzero Solid Hand Cream
Viori Hair Shampoo & Conditioner Bar with Bamboo Holder Set
Brixy Shampoo and Conditioner Bar with Body Wash Set

Raise A Wand:
Listener Nollaig: Sculpted by Aimee Mymascara Brown
Jess: Marvis Classic Strong Mint Toothpaste
Jenn: Krave Beauty Beet the Sun Spf 40 Pa+++

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Celebrity Plastic Surgery and Allure’s Evolution with Editor in Chief Jessica Cruel

We dig into the topics that Allure readers can’t get enough of with its editor in chief, Jessica Cruel. She discusses Black representation in beauty journalism, our ongoing fascination with celebrity plastic surgery, and how the world of cosmetic procedures is finally becoming more inclusive. Plus, she shares makeup tips for people who wear glasses, takes us behind the scenes of the Allure Best of Beauty Awards, and tells us about the essences and sunscreens that are her personal favorites.

Below you’ll find a list of some of the people, topics, and products mentioned in this episode. If you have any questions (or just want to say hi), reach out to us on Instagram or via email (info@fatmascara.com). And please email us voice memos of your beauty questions and Raise A Wand favorites so we can share them on the show. You can also leave us a voicemail to be featured on a future podcast (our phone number in the U.S. is at 646-481-8182).

Jessica Cruel - EIC of Allure
Michelle Lee - previous EIC of Allure
The Melanin Edit
Plastic Surgery Hasn't Always Welcomed Black Folks — It's Time for a Shake-Up - by Sierra Leone Starks
A New Filler for Laugh Lines and More Procedures That Are Safe for Dark Skin - by Baze Mpinja
Refinery29 Unbothered
BBL
The Black Beauty Club
Fillers
Botox
Allure Best of Beauty

Products Jessica enjoys:
SK-II Facial Treatment Essence
Neogen Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence
La Mer Genaissance De La Mer the Serum Essence
Black Girl Sunscreen Make It Hybrid Sunscreen Lotion Spf 50
Melé No Shade Sunscreen Oil Broad Spectrum Spf 30 for Melanin Rich Skin
Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz
Nyx Professional Makeup Tinted Brow Mascara
Anastasia Beverly Hills Liquid Lipstick - American Doll
Fenty Beauty Stunna Lip Paint
Nest New York Holiday Candle

Anthony Dickey - Jessica’s hair stylist
Michelle Henry - her dermatologist
My Chic Nails - her favorite nail salon

Beyoncé - Cozy
Taraji P Henson
Girl Scout Thin Mints Cookies
Charlotte Cho

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How to Celebrate Yourself with Model Ashley Graham (Replay)

Is it time to ban the word “normal” in discussions of body shape and skin and hair type? Yes, says model Ashley Graham. The author and TV host also explains how to do (realistic!) daily affirmations and shares the things that make her feel good: meditation, prayer, and acupuncture—along with facials, exfoliation, occasional hair removal, and the meticulous application of self-tanner. (If you want to self-tan without looking fake, take notes as she shares her foolproof technique!) This interview originally aired in June 2021, but we'll be back next week with all new episodes!

Below you’ll find a list of some of the people, topics, and products mentioned in this episode. If you have any questions (or just want to say hi), reach out to us on Instagram or via email (info@fatmascara.com). And please email us voice memos of your beauty questions and Raise A Wand favorites so we can share them on the show. You can also leave us a voicemail to be featured on a future podcast (our phone number in the U.S. is at 646-481-8182).

Ashley Graham
Pretty Big Deal with Ashley Graham Podcast
A New Model: What Confidence, Beauty, and Power Really Look Like by Ashley Graham
Katie Jane Hughes
St. Tropez Luxe Whipped Crème Mousse
St. Tropez Dual Sided Luxe Applicator Mitt
St. Tropez Self Tan Purity Bronzing Water Face Mist
Flamingo 5-Blade Women's Razor
Flamingo Light Hydrating Spray
Sandra Lanshin - her acupuncturist
Mzia Shiman Spa - her facialist who helps her look like “the best version of me”
Bioderma Sensibio H2o Micellar Water
Isdin Melatonik Restorative Melatonin Night Serum
Byredo Mini Perfumes
Clean & Clear Morning Burst Facial Cleanser
Levitating by Dua Lipa
Morgan Freeman

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